Donegal Castle

           On the twenty third of March, we added to our list of places we have travelled to in order to obtain a better understanding of Ireland. This time, although we were still in the Republic of Ireland, we were in the northern county of Donegal exploring the Donegal Castle. Hugh O’Donnell, ruler of Tirconnell, built it in the fifteenth century. The O’Donnell family ruled the Kingdom of Tirconnell from 1200 to 1601. Predictably, since by the sixteenth century England had significant power in Ireland due to the works of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, this castle was doomed to enter conflict with the English affairs. The Ulster province was doing quite well in keeping Gaelic power—O’Neills of Tyrone, O’Donnells of Tirconnell, and the Maguires of Fermanagh were still flourishing until conflict arose. O’Donnell supported Maguire in his resistance to English rule and, in 1595 O’Neill joined their forces as well, commencing the Nine Years War. The Gaelic forces had to use quick ambush and retreat tactics because of the military strength of England. Still, Lord Mountjoy arrived in 1600 forcing O’Donnell to flee the town of Donegal. Before leaving, however, O’Donnell destroyed the castle rendering it useless to the English. Eventually, O’Donnell died in Spain in 1602 and his successor, along with O’Neill and Maguire fled to Spain in 1607 in what is known as the “Flight of the Earls.” Ultimately, the English took control of the castle, which was granted to Captain Basil Brooke. It remained in the Brooke family for sometime, but was abandoned by the eighteenth century and granted to the Office of Public Works in 1898. Restoration has taken place since, as recently as the 1990s.

            Donegal Castle is beside the River Eske in the town of Donegal. Strategically positioned, it was a superb defensive structure as the river protected it on two sides. The castle is composed of a fifteenth century rectangular keep and a seventeenth century Jacobean—named after King James I—style wing. It is a typical castle made of limestone and some sandstone. The inside is beautifully furnished with Persian rugs and French tapestries. The exquisite fireplace inside the Banqueting Hall dates from the seventeenth century and is regarded as one of the finest of its kind in Ireland. It contains elaborate carvings and many symbols that tell the story of whose hands the castle has been in. The carvings are also echoed in the furniture. Despite the strategic position, exquisite carvings, and pleasant furnishings, the castle is much more compact than other castles. Indeed, the appearance and the history of the castle contribute to the construction of historical Ireland.

            Donegal Castle is a symbol of change in Ireland. Ulster was resisting the English power, but it was inevitable that England would eventually ascend in Ulster as they already had in much of Ireland. After the English Crown took control of the castle, no more significant Gaelic forces would rule the town of Donegal. The Nine Years War not only changed this part of Ireland, but also essentially wiped out the last of the strongest Gaelic lords. England would go on to ravage Ireland with Cromwellian affairs, Ulster plantations, Catholic suppression, and peasant exploitation. As this castle is relevant to historical Ireland, so it is also relevant to modern Ireland.

            Modern Ireland seems to be lost in its culture and foundations. We can even see how to be Irish to some people, means, essentially, to hate English. Our group does not see how a culture and a people can successfully thrive and grown based on a hatred of a particular people. But, it is stories like that of Donegal Castle that give substantial merit to this hatred. Years of strife with a foreign nation will, undoubtedly, render feelings of hatred and confusion. People may become so focused on this hatred and resentment that they become nearsighted and blind to a more altruistic outlook on life. Irish people are great and funny and intelligent, but some seem to be apathetic in relation to pursuing healing and relationship. Early on, Ireland was a powerful Christian nation and had a significant hand in ministering to people within Ireland as well as foreigners in other countries. But, the historical events that have taken place render Ireland disconnected with this past. This is why even an Irish artist and speaker who spoke to us describes the culture of Ireland as atheistic and lost. Today, the Irish do not seem to be as much in a state of hatred, as they are indifferent to a wholeness of life.

            Our personal reactions to the castle were relatively indifferent. We did not have a tour guide and it was much smaller than other castles we have visited. Additionally, it was at the end of a long day and many students rushed through the exhibits. Consequently, the place did not seem to come alive to us. But, we were impressed with the stone carvings of the fireplace as described above. We were surprised with its closeness to the town of Donegal. The castle and the town center are adjacent rendering a contrast between a modern living structure with a historic dead structure. Perhaps, this helps us reflect on our view of Ireland. Ireland seems to be dead to the world in which so much is happening. Upon leaving the castle, the man in the office even commanded me to “have a pint and shed a tear for Ireland.” The man continued to criticize the banking crisis and other issues of modern Ireland. There was no sense of hope in his voice. The castle of Donegal, indeed, tells the story of a people with a difficult history. 

Fireplace in Banqueting Hall

Donegal Castle: Jacobean wing (left) and rectangular keep (right)

Inside Jacobean wing

Donegal Castle