The land between the lakes, or Glendalough as it is known, was the site of our first major day trip with ISP 2013! On Wednesday morning all 31 of us hopped on our coach bus and drove down about 45 minutes southwest of Greystones to Glendalough, aptly named for the two lakes it sits nestled between. While quite cold that day, we were blessed with plenty of wonderful sunshine, so it turned out to be a lovely time!
As we soon found out, Glendalough was a prime example of Celtic monasticism. The site was founded by Saint Kevin, an ascetic monk ordained as a priest, in the sixth century. According to legend, there was a king nearby whose beloved pet goose was ill. Kevin offered to heal the animal if he could then have any land that the goose flew over directly afterwards. The king agreed, and when Kevin healed the goose it took wing and circled the valley between two large lakes. The king kept his word, and the land that would become Glendalough was Kevin’s. He moved to the area to be alone, but he apparently had such an attractive personality that people flocked to him and he eventually agreed to form a monastic community there. Kevin died in 620, but the monastery flourished for several hundred years afterwards.
Physically, Glendalough is stunning. Besides the two lakes, the landscape abounds with rolling hills, waterfalls, and vibrantly green foliage. The main constructed features of the site include the cemetery, a small church called St. Kevin’s Kitchen, a cathedral, and the tall Round Tower, in which the community could stock valuables as well as food or themselves to try to protect them from Viking invasion. In fact, the entire valley holds strong historical importance to Ireland. As previously mentioned, it was a prime example of Celtic monasticism—a place of simplicity, community and rhythm. Hospitality was valued, as evidenced by the practice of giving sanctuary—both physically and legally—to its guests, and there were even instances of women in positions of authority, which would be unusual for the time. The people of these communities didn’t just focus on biblical studies—in fact, these monastic sites were known for their intermixing of the sacred and secular. Art, music, scripture and culture flourished in these ecclesiastical communities. It was then that Ireland was in its Golden Age, when the rest of Europe floundered in the Dark Ages.
Glendalough also holds untold significance to the development of modern Ireland. As mentioned in the film shown to us at the museum, “Glendalough is the storehouse of the past and the birthplace of the future.” It stood for a holistic way of life that placed value in both solitude and community. There was an emphasis on self-driven thought and the idea that there are multiple ways of knowing truth. All this represented a significant shift in the mindset from barbaric to peaceful thinking and ways of life.
Glendalough fell into decline in the 13th century, but was rediscovered in the 18th century. It is considered to be one of four important pilgrimage sites to Ireland even now, and Saint Kevin’s feast day is still celebrated on June 3rd.
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